G-02 Field guide
Water is a response, not a schedule.
Watering is a response to light, pot size, soil volume, and season. Calendar rules are only a starting point.
How to know when to water
Push a finger 2-3 cm into the soil. For low-water plants (cacti, succulents, ZZ, snake plant) water when the soil is completely dry at that depth. For medium-water plants (pothos, monstera, most tropicals) water when the top 2 cm has dried out. For high-water plants (calathea, ferns, peace lily) keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged -- check every two to three days. Pot weight is a reliable shortcut once you know a plant: a well-watered pot feels noticeably heavier than a dry one.
Watering thoroughly once is better than watering a little every day. Water until it drains freely from the bottom, then wait.
Light drives the schedule
A plant in bright indirect light in summer may need watering every five days. The same plant moved to a medium-light spot in winter might only need watering every 14-18 days. The soil dries at the speed the plant uses water, which is driven by photosynthesis, which is driven by light. If the room gets darker, reduce watering before the roots tell you to.
Pot size and drainage
A plant in a large pot relative to its root mass sits in wet soil for longer, which increases root rot risk. When repotting, go up one size at a time -- 2-4 cm wider in diameter. Always check that the drainage hole is clear. Decorative cache pots without drainage need to be emptied after watering or the plant sits in standing water between visits.
Seasonal reduction
Most indoor plants slow down in autumn and rest through winter. Water less frequently from October to February, even if the recommended schedule says otherwise. The soil takes longer to dry in low winter light. Resume normal frequency once you see new growth appear in spring -- that is the clearest signal the plant has woken up.